14 days in Taiwan: from Taipei to Kaohsiung

Days 1 and 2: start in Ximending, the neighbourhood where we based ourselves. Between the pedestrian streets, glowing signs and terraces around Red House, we felt at home immediately. We also discovered a welcoming LGBTQ+ scene and met some extraordinarily kind people. Add Longshan Temple and the old streets of Dadaocheng to see a different side of Taipei. Days 3 and 4: explore Taipei 101 and the modern Xinyi district. We chose a coffee with a view at Simple Kaffa Sola, on the 88th floor, rather than automatically buying a ticket for the classic observation deck. Finish at Elephant Mountain: plenty of stairs, a little effort and an incredible skyline. Leave time for Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall and the National Palace Museum too. Day 5: take a day trip to Shifen for the railway tracks, sky lanterns and waterfall, then continue to Jiufen for winding streets and red lanterns after sunset. We did it by public transport without a guided tour. Day 6: slow down, revisit a favourite viewpoint or spend an evening around Red House. We loved Taipei so much that we extended our own stay.

Day 1 · Ximending and your first Red House evening

Settle in and explore Ximending’s pedestrian streets. Crispy Milk Donuts is an easy snack stop while you are here, rather than a reason to cross the city. Spend the evening around Red House’s terraces, where we particularly enjoyed simply being a couple on holiday. Keep this arrival day light.

Day 2 · Temples and the city’s history

Combine Longshan Temple with Liberty Square and Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall. Look beyond the striking white façade: the exhibitions add context to a complex political history. Leave room for meals and nearby streets between visits. Use the metro rather than turning the day into one long walk in the heat.

Day 3 · Xinyi, Taipei 101 and Elephant Mountain

Keep the day in Xinyi rather than crossing between distant neighbourhoods. Our alternative to Taipei 101’s observatory was coffee at Simple Kaffa Sola; check access and conditions before relying on it. Finish with Elephant Mountain’s steps and allow time to watch the city light up. We enjoyed it enough to return a second time.

Day 4 · Shifen and Jiufen without rushing

Head to Shifen for its railway street and waterfall, then continue to Jiufen in the afternoon. We used trains and buses rather than a group tour. Allow a tea-house break in Jiufen and stay for the evening lanterns. Treat this as a full excursion day, without adding a major Taipei sight after returning.

Day 5 · The museum and an evening of your choice

Give the National Palace Museum a proper visit rather than squeezing it between neighbourhoods. Take time with the collections, then return to favourite streets for dinner. For a gay night out, Cosma and Red House’s terraces feature in our memories; our final evening was livelier than the first ones. Choose according to your energy before tomorrow’s journey.

From the airport: if you land at Taoyuan, the Airport MRT express reaches Taipei Main Station in roughly 35 to 40 minutes, depending on the terminal. Continue by MRT or taxi. The metro is cheaper for most city journeys; Uber is handy with luggage or late at night. Unlike in Vietnam, don't plan around using Grab in Taiwan. Getting around: buy an EasyCard for the MRT, buses and many small purchases. For mobile data, install an eSIM before arrival, such as Airalo, or compare tourist SIM packages at the airport. A local phone number can help with certain services. Pack your toothbrush too: hotels no longer routinely provide disposable toiletries. Our tip: give Shifen and Jiufen a full day, ideally staying until the lanterns light up. For a night out, we especially enjoyed the Red House terraces and Cosma.

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Cosma TaipeiTaipei 101XimendingJiufenShifen Old StreetChiang Kai-shek Memorial HallCrispy Milk Donuts

After Taipei, Tainan feels as though someone has turned down the speed. The buildings are lower, the lanes older and little temples appear between houses. Day 7: start with Shennong Street in the late afternoon for its lanterns, historic facades and small shops. Wander around Ximen Market and Fort Provintia, then stop at a small eatery for a bowl of danzai noodles. We came to Tainan largely for the food, and it didn't take long to understand its reputation. Day 8: head to Anping and its historic fort, then explore the markets and old streets nearby. We also tried milkfish and loved the unpretentious local eateries. In the evening, Garden Night Market is worth a visit on a night when it is open, with endless stalls and a lively atmosphere. But one of our favourite memories wasn't about food at all. One morning, a vendor let us take our coffees even though we'd forgotten our cash, trusting us to return and pay. And later, a night out at a gay bar took a rather unexpected turn: the drinks package got cheaper when you took your trousers off. Tainan gave us just as much warmth and spontaneity as good food.

Day 6 · The train, then Shennong Street

Travel to Tainan by train, including the connection from your arrival station to your accommodation. Once settled, spend the late afternoon around Shennong Street and the central lanes. The street is short: enjoy the surrounding streets, food stops and evening lighting rather than treating it as a standalone excursion.

Day 7 · Anping and a day of food stops

Explore Anping and its shopping streets earlier in the day, then return to the centre for several small food stops. Anping Old Fort interested us without entirely winning us over, partly because we struggled with the explanations; choose it according to your interest in history. Check which night markets open on your actual visit day; Tainan Garden Night Market is one of our recommendations.

Getting to Tainan: the high-speed train from Taipei is the fastest option, but there's a catch: Tainan HSR station is outside the city centre. Walk to the adjoining Shalun station and take a local train to Tainan Station. A conventional TRA train can be more convenient if you prefer to arrive directly in the centre. Our tips: stay in the historic centre so you can explore on foot. Carry cash for markets and small food stalls, and install LINE, which is widely used by accommodation providers and local businesses. Check which days Garden Night Market opens as it doesn't run every evening. If you're short on time, we'd prioritise the old streets, food and Shennong Street over rushing through every monument.

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有滋有味担仔麵Tainan Garden Night MarketShennong Street

Day 9: leave the cities behind for Xiaoliuqiu, a small island off Taiwan's southwest coast. The ferry from Donggang takes about thirty minutes. Our first island memory wasn't a turtle at all, but a sunset over the sea. That evening, we tried a lively all-you-can-eat barbecue where everyone cooked their own food. Day 10: explore the island at an easy pace and enjoy its beaches. We spotted turtles at Secret Beach before spending a much quieter afternoon at Venice Beach. Day 11: make time for Beauty Beach. This is where we had one of the most extraordinary experiences of our Taiwan trip. Green sea turtles were swimming and feeding just metres from shore. A little farther out, we even watched more than ten of them around a submerged rock. Our favourite tip: bring your mask and snorkel, take your time and let the turtles choose how close they come. We spent almost two hours in the water without getting bored. There's no need to turn every encounter into a photo opportunity: watching them undisturbed is already incredible.

Day 8 · Reach Donggang, then the island

Allow the day for travel from Tainan, the connection to Donggang harbour and the ferry. Our crossing took around thirty minutes, but budget for the complete journey. Arrange island transport beforehand: we spent nearly two hours finding a suitable scooter. A sunset and dinner are plenty for the first evening.

Day 9 · Beauty Beach and the turtles

If sea conditions allow, start at Beauty Beach with a mask and snorkel. We watched turtles close to shore without an organised excursion, although wildlife sightings are never guaranteed. Swim patiently without crowding, following or touching them. Check current access arrangements, then keep the afternoon free instead of trying to collect every island spot.

Day 10 · Venice Beach and a flexible day

We preferred Venice Beach to Secret Beach for a relaxed afternoon. Pick a beach according to the sea, or use the day to try Beauty Beach again if yesterday’s conditions were unsuitable. Our all-you-can-eat barbecue was another fun memory. Keep this flexibility: it is the advantage of staying rather than making a quick day trip.

Getting there: first reach Donggang from the Kaohsiung area by bus or taxi, depending on your luggage and the timetable. Bus 9127D serves the ferry-pier area from Zuoying, among other stops. Then take the ferry to Xiaoliuqiu. Check sailing times and the weather before leaving, as services can change. On the island: arrange transport before you arrive. We spent almost two hours trying to rent a scooter until a wonderfully helpful local renter took us to another shop. Check licence requirements, the vehicle category and insurance before renting. For snorkelling: bring your own gear if possible, never touch the turtles and never block their path.

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Beauty Beach

Day 12: return to the main island and settle into Kaohsiung. This port city surprised us with its relaxed pace, open spaces and creativity. Start at Pier-2 Art Center, where old warehouses now house galleries, shops and art installations. In the evening, wander towards Kaohsiung Music Center to see the harbour and its contemporary architecture light up. Day 13: take a bike or public transport to Lotus Pond and the Dragon and Tiger Pagodas. Tradition says to enter through the dragon's mouth and leave through the tiger's, then explore the other lakeside pavilions. Finish at Sanfong Temple, where rows of red lanterns look especially beautiful later in the day. Day 14: hop on the short ferry to Cijin, walk up to Cihou Lighthouse and watch the cargo ships entering the harbour. Enjoy the island atmosphere before moving on. And if you like meeting people, Kaohsiung also has a local LGBTQ+ scene. One of our evenings took a completely unexpected turn at a bar hosting a rope bondage workshop, where we ended up having a wonderful conversation with a local. Kaohsiung deserves a place on the itinerary.

Day 11 · Return from the island, then Pier-2

Take the ferry back to Donggang and continue to Kaohsiung. After settling in, explore Pier-2 Art Center’s former warehouses, sculptures and harbour streets. We continued towards the Music Center at dusk. Galleries have their own opening hours; even without an exhibition, the outdoor walk makes a lovely introduction to the city.

Day 12 · Lotus Pond and Sanfong’s lanterns

Spend a substantial part of the day around Lotus Pond, the Dragon and Tiger Pagodas and nearby pavilions. We used YouBike bicycles; choose transport according to the heat and your appetite for cycling. Later, head back towards Sanfong Temple at dusk, when its red lanterns gave the courtyard a very different atmosphere from the lakeside shrines.

Day 13 · Cycle around Cijin and watch the sunset

Take the ferry to Cijin and walk up to Cihou Lighthouse for a view of the harbour’s geography. We then rented bicycles to follow the coast and finished by the sea at sunset. Keep the day simple, with pauses. If you fancy a night out afterwards, check NAMI’s programme rather than assuming every evening is the same.

Day 14 · Leave without a final rush

Keep only a coffee and a short walk near your accommodation before leaving. This route ends in Kaohsiung: if you fly from Taipei, use part of the previous day for the return journey and allow a suitable buffer. Do not treat Cijin, a cross-island transfer and an international flight as three tiny errands to squeeze together.

Getting around: the MRT and YouBike bikes work well for the main districts. Uber or a taxi is convenient with luggage or for a late return. For Cijin, head to the ferry terminal and cross on foot or with a permitted bike. Check the last departures for the day you're visiting. Leaving Taiwan: Kaohsiung International Airport is on the MRT Red Line at station R4. The metro is usually simpler and cheaper than a car for getting to the airport, unless you have lots of luggage or are travelling outside operating hours. If you're flying from Taipei instead, allow time for the high-speed train north and your airport connection. Our take: we arrived in Kaohsiung with few expectations and ended up feeling surprisingly at home. Three days give you time to enjoy its contrasts without rushing from sight to sight.

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Dragon and Tiger PagodasSanfong TempleNAMI CLUBPier-2 Art Center