Guide to Taipei

About 40 kilometres from Taipei, Jiufen is a former mining village perched in the mountains of northeastern Taiwan, with lovely views of the sea. Once prosperous thanks to gold mining, it's now known for its narrow lanes, traditional teahouses, small shops and, above all, the red lanterns that create a special atmosphere after dusk. Much of the activity is centred on Jiufen Old Street, with Taiwanese snacks, stairways and shops clinging to the hillside.

With its white façade and blue roof, the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall is impossible to miss. Built in 1980 to honour Taiwan's former leader, it overlooks the enormous Liberty Square, flanked by the National Theater and National Concert Hall. Yet the history behind it is complex: Chiang ruled Taiwan under an authoritarian regime, while the square later became a symbol of democratization, particularly during the 1990 student protests.

In the lively Ximending district of Taipei, this little shop has become a social media sensation thanks to its famous Crispy Milk Donuts. Unlike traditional donuts, they have a slightly crispy exterior, a soft centre and a generous coating of milk powder. A sweet street-food snack to try while exploring the neighbourhood.