Phnom Penh, Between Wonder and Remembrance
Our first surprise in Phnom Penh wasn't the Royal Palace, but our hotel room. After several hours on a bus from Ho Chi Minh City, we arrived in the rain at the Ocean Hotel, where we were told we'd been upgraded. Always good news! Except that our new room was in a corridor where several guests seemed to be competing in a smoking contest. Doors wide open,…