“Hey, isn't it Aperol o'clock?”
It's around 3 p.m., and Matthieu has just officially called off our alcohol break. One small detail: we're still climbing uphill on the way back from Güigüí Beach in Gran Canaria. We've got another forty minutes of hiking before we reach the car, followed by almost an hour's drive back to Maspalomas. That Aperol Spritz will have to wait. The funniest part? Matthieu has been insisting all morning that we wouldn't drink today. Apparently, that resolution couldn't even survive the hike.
This is our fifth visit to Maspalomas, or something close to it, on the south coast of Gran Canaria. And if Europe had to choose an LGBTQ+ capital, Maspalomas would definitely be a contender. The community gathers here in the sunshine all year round, between the beaches, gay hotels and nights out at Yumbo. We meet visitors from all over Europe, especially Germans and Brits, long-time regulars and people just passing through. That mix of generations, nationalities and lifestyles is exactly what we love. Just a few hours on a plane and we're back in this atmosphere where we immediately feel at ease. As usual, we pick up a rental car at Gran Canaria Airport. It's handy for exploring the island at our own pace, even if we don't use it every day. Then it's straight to Rainbow Golf, our usual little hideaway. This gay hotel has bungalows with kitchenettes, a pool and a clothing-optional atmosphere. We love that freedom, the relaxed vibe and being able to do things our way. Once we've dropped off our bags, we head to Meloneras for coffee near the Maspalomas lighthouse, a little ritual on every trip. Then come our first swims and the essential shopping: Aperol, prosecco and oranges. With a kitchenette in the bungalow, we can make our own Spritzes by the pool.
But our real date with Maspalomas is sunset in the dunes. On our very first evening, we head to the entrance near the Riu Palace Maspalomas, the huge hotel overlooking the sand. We've planned everything: ingredients for Aperol Spritzes, a cooler bag to keep the drinks cold and a spot to sit facing the sunset. Everything except glasses. So there we are, drinking Spritzes straight out of a Tupperware container, with a spectacular view of the dunes and the ocean. Not particularly classy, but definitely memorable. The last golden light transforms the landscape, shadows stretch across the ridges, and, as every year, we wonder why we don't come here more often. Our advice is simple: go and watch the sunset in the dunes on your first evening. We always end up wishing we'd seen more of them. We finish the day at Yumbo Centrum, the famous shopping centre in Playa del Inglés that has become one of the main gathering places for the gay community, with its many bars, restaurants and nightlife venues.
Over the next few days, we quickly settle into our usual routine. A workout at a local gym, then off to Maspalomas Beach near our beloved kiosk 5, where we love spending the afternoon. We get there by crossing the dunes or walking along the coast, then settle in for hours of swimming, sunshine and conversation. The water feels lovely, the atmosphere is relaxed and the days fly by. In the late afternoon, we sometimes head back towards the lighthouse in Meloneras for a drink overlooking the ocean before going to Yumbo for dinner. One discovery is Allende 22º, a restaurant in Playa del Inglés whose rice dishes we particularly enjoy. You can choose from different kinds of rice, including black rice, and add tuna, salmon or chicken. It's exactly the kind of food we like: simple ingredients, good combinations and genuinely delicious plates. We can't say every meal in Maspalomas is a culinary highlight, but this place is worth a stop.
In the middle of this otherwise relaxing week, we've planned something much more active: the hike to Playa de Güigüí on Gran Canaria's west coast. Starting in Tasartico, the trail winds through spectacular volcanic scenery, climbs to a pass more than 500 metres above sea level and then drops down towards the ocean. It's roughly 11 kilometres there and back, with five to six hours of walking, not counting time on the beach. It's not the hardest hike we've ever done, but it's still demanding, with long climbs, rocky ground and heat to contend with. We really recommend proper hiking shoes, sun protection and plenty of water, because there's nowhere to stock up along the trail. But what a reward at the end! An enormous dark-sand beach framed by dramatic cliffs, with hardly anyone around. That day there are maybe eight of us on the whole beach. We enjoy the almost untouched scenery, capture beautiful drone footage and soak up the peace before heading back. The climb out is tough, especially after hours in the sun, but the views remain incredible. And when Matthieu starts talking about aperitif time, we realise our alcohol-free day might not go quite to plan. There's still a fair way to go, but the thought of getting back to our hotel pool is extra motivation.
Back in Maspalomas, we return to our favourite rhythm: gym in the morning, beach in the afternoon and sunset at the end of the day. You might think we're not being very adventurous, but that's exactly why we're here. No rushing from one attraction to the next, just hours by the sea and the freedom to decide where to go out at the last minute. We also use our evenings at Yumbo to discover new places. This time, after several trips to the island, we finally walk into Tom's Cruising Bar, a men-only gay venue with more intimate spaces for meeting people. We'd never been before, and we have a pretty entertaining evening. That's another thing we love about Maspalomas: even after so many visits, there's always somewhere new to discover.
For our second-to-last day, we decide to leave the south of the island for a while and drive to Agaete on the northwest coast. We've wanted to see the natural pools of Las Salinas for ages: three connected pools carved into volcanic rock and refreshed by Atlantic seawater. It's a beautiful setting, and swimming here makes a nice change from our usual beach days. But the weather quickly reminds us that Gran Canaria has different sides to it. While the south is often sunny, the north can be much cloudier. We enjoy a few patches of blue sky before everything turns decidedly grey. A little disappointed not to have more sunshine, we drive back to Maspalomas, where our hotel pool is waiting.
For our final full day, there's no reason to change a winning routine. We head back to the beach, enjoy the sea and the atmosphere we love so much, then return to the dunes one last time to watch the sun sink below the horizon. It's become our favourite way to begin and end a trip to Maspalomas. The next morning, it's already time to drive back to the airport and head home.
You might wonder why we keep coming back to the same place when there are still so many destinations left to discover. But Maspalomas has something special for us. We find a freedom here that we really value, a vibrant LGBTQ+ community, beautiful beaches and the chance to make no plans without ever getting bored. Sure, we could vary our days a bit more. But between the dunes, Güigüí, swimming, nights out at Yumbo and Aperol Spritzes occasionally served in very unlikely containers, we've found a formula that makes us happy. And we already know we'll want to come back.