“20 dirhams, my friend!”
“No, far too expensive!”
“Come on, for you, my friend, 15!”
“No, no, still too much!”
Matthieu starts walking away from the stall. He's already compared prices with several vendors and knows perfectly well that this one can do better.
“Wait, my friend! 12 dirhams!”
“No, too expensive!”
Matthieu keeps walking. Five metres from the stall, they're still bargaining. At ten metres, they're practically shouting prices across the market.
“My friend! 10 dirhams, final price!”
Matthieu turns around one last time.
“8 dirhams!”
“Come on, my friend, OK, 8 dirhams!”
Matthieu comes back with a big smile. Deal!
Ten minutes of bargaining, with prices being called out across the market… All for a few pieces of nougat.
Welcome to Marrakech! Matthieu loves bargaining, especially when he feels someone is trying to charge him three times the price. Even if the whole exchange only saved him a few Swiss francs, it's a matter of principle. Sébastien would probably have bought his nougat much earlier. But we have to admit Matthieu is pretty good at this game!
Sébastien had dreamed of visiting Marrakech for years. Matthieu, on the other hand, had never really considered it. So when winter settles over the Northern Hemisphere, we decide to head to Morocco for a few sunny days. We choose the Riu Tikida Palmeraie, a large hotel outside the medina, with several swimming pools, a tennis court, a gym and an all-inclusive package. We wanted to explore Marrakech while having somewhere peaceful to return to after sightseeing. And on that front, we made the right choice. There's even a donkey in the hotel gardens. We have no idea exactly what it's doing there, but we make sure to visit it several times!
From our very first day, Marrakech dazzles us. We start at the Majorelle Garden, with its almost unreal blue buildings, yellow pots and lush greenery. The contrast of colours is absolutely beautiful. It's easy to see why this garden, once saved by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé, has become one of the city's most photographed places. But when we enter the medina, we discover a completely different Marrakech. The narrow streets overflow with goods, the smell of spices mingles with that of small restaurants, and we sometimes have to squeeze between pedestrians and scooters. We explore the splendid Bahia Palace, then the huge Jemaa el-Fnaa square, where something seems to be happening at every turn. We love the bustle, even if the way some animals are treated makes us sad. At sunset, the silhouette of the Koutoubia Mosque stands out against the sky. We can already understand why Marrakech fascinates so many people.
In the evening, the atmosphere changes completely. We're back at our hotel, with its gardens and bar where drinks are included in our package. And it's there that we witness something we unfortunately see in many all-inclusive hotels. Some guests walk up to the counter and simply bark “Beer!” at the waiter, without hello, please or even thank you. We've always been amazed by the idea that all-inclusive apparently means manners are optional too! We were always taught to greet and thank the people serving us, even when we don't speak their language. And really, a smile and a little kindness cost nothing. Sometimes we even get the impression that they lead to a slightly more generous pour! In any case, the atmosphere is great, there's music and we thoroughly enjoy our evening.
The next day starts with a workout and a game of tennis. We go and say hello to our donkey friend, even spot a tortoise in the gardens, then head out on an excursion to the Agafay Desert. We'd imagined vast stretches of sand, but instead find a landscape of dry, rocky hills. The programme includes a camel ride followed by a quad-bike adventure. The first activity is very touristy and doesn't leave a lasting impression, although the animals seem to be treated reasonably well. The quad biking, however, is a wonderful surprise! We have so much fun riding through these desert landscapes. As the sun begins to sink, the scenery becomes truly beautiful. The evening continues under tents with a Moroccan meal, music and a fire show. It's clearly an experience organised for tourists, but they certainly know how to create a great atmosphere. We return delighted, with a little dust as a souvenir.
Back in the medina the following day, we discover the impressive ruins of El Badi Palace. Its enormous ochre walls and floors decorated with geometric patterns make a perfect playground for photography. We spend much longer there than expected before returning to the souks and Spice Square, Rahba Kedima. With its baskets, straw hats and colourful stalls, it's one of our favourite places. We settle in at Café des Épices to watch the bustle, then head off to explore the shops. This time, we take our time enjoying the narrow streets, little stores and distinctive atmosphere. We also discover a few cafés and other spots in the medina before returning to our hotel for one last sunset by the pools.
That evening, a concert of Berber music accompanies our dinner, and we realise we've found exactly the pace we wanted: busy days, but always enough time to relax. The next day, it's already time to leave. At the airport, the successive security checks remind us that the trip really is over. We leave Marrakech with wonderful memories, a few good addresses and, above all, a desire to discover more of Morocco.
But the trip also leaves us with something to reflect on. As a gay couple, Marrakech isn't a destination where we can express our relationship with the same freedom we have at home. Same-sex sexual relations remain criminalised in Morocco and, although we came across several other LGBTQ+ couples during our stay, we knew it was wiser to avoid public displays of affection. It's a reality that bothers us, particularly in a city that celebrates the legacy of Yves Saint Laurent, who was openly gay. None of this stopped us from loving Marrakech, its colours, its people and its distinctive atmosphere. But we hope that one day every couple will be able to travel there without having to think about how they show affection. Because Marrakech deserves to be discovered, and everyone should be free to do so.