“Hello!”
Early in the morning, Sébastien gently pokes his head out from under his blanket and finds a little boy looking down at him from the upper bunk, wearing a huge smile. Not quite how we expected our first day in Saigon to begin! Little Quynh, around four years old, is travelling with his mum in our compartment. Ever since we left Quy Nhơn, he has kept coming over to say “Hello!”, offer us food and make sure we are doing all right. The funniest part is that whenever he wants to ask us something, he first checks with his mum how to say it in English, then turns towards us and repeats it with the utmost seriousness. He is absolutely adorable and makes us laugh so much. After a surprisingly peaceful night on the sleeper train, we arrive in Ho Chi Minh City, formerly Saigon. Well, formerly on paper, because the name Saigon is still everywhere. And between us, it is the one we prefer too!
We head to our hotel in District 1, the central area we were advised to stay in to explore the city. We drop off our bags and immediately set out into Saigon's streets. Our first stop is the famous Café Apartment, a building where former flats have been turned into cafés, shops and restaurants. Its façade, with balconies and signs stacked one above another, has become one of the city's most recognisable sights. We take a few photos before heading to Bến Thành Market, a huge covered market selling everything from clothes and souvenirs to food. We keep walking, watching the traffic and getting to know a city that never seems to slow down.
But the one thing everyone had told us about before we arrived was Saigon's nightlife. And we have to admit, it does not disappoint. On our very first evening, we discover Bùi Viện, a completely wild street where bars, clubs, giant screens and flashing lights follow one another almost without a break. Music blasts from every direction, dancers perform outside the venues and pedestrians weave between the terraces. It is loud, over the top and sometimes wonderfully kitsch, but undeniably impressive. We settle into a bar for a few drinks and a game of shuffleboard, the tabletop game we first discovered in English pubs. We have a brilliant evening. The next day, we take it easy before heading off to play pickleball, our new obsession since arriving in Vietnam. After several years of playing tennis with rather questionable talent, we have found a sport that we absolutely love. Even though the welcome at the club is not particularly friendly and the court is quite expensive, we have a great time.
Our first stay in Saigon is already coming to an end, and so are our 45 days in Vietnam. As Swiss citizens, we benefit from a visa exemption for that length of time, so we had planned to leave the country and return a few weeks later. But after only two days in Saigon, we leave with a funny feeling: we almost know its bars better than its monuments! Luckily, our return to Vietnam is already planned, and this time we fully intend to take the time to explore the city. A few weeks later, here we are back in Saigon, with several days ahead of us, a list of places to visit and the very best intentions. Except that we arrive on a Saturday night…
And how good it feels to be eating Vietnamese food again! After several weeks elsewhere in Asia, we realise just how much we have missed it. We ate incredibly well during our first 45 days in the country. Between fragrant soups, noodle dishes, bánh mì and all the specialities we never tire of discovering, Vietnamese food really is delicious. So our second visit to Saigon is also a chance to enjoy all those flavours again, and we certainly do not need any persuading!
We start at THi Bar – Tonight on Stage, a small gay bar where singers perform live. Their voices are seriously impressive and the atmosphere is fantastic. We then carry on through the bright lights of Bùi Viện before heading to Frolic Station, a new gay club where the music and the crowd's energy immediately make us want to dance. We are having so much fun that we completely lose track of time. It is almost three in the morning when we finally decide to head home. One of those nights that reminds us exactly why we love exploring the nightlife of big cities.
Over the following days, we do make an effort to get to know Saigon a little better in daylight. Between workouts, café stops and a few more games of pickleball, we visit the pink Tân Định Church, one of the city's most striking buildings. Built during the French colonial period and inaugurated in 1876, the church combines Romanesque and Gothic influences. But what immediately catches your eye is, of course, its candy-pink colour, covering almost the entire façade, towers and decorative details. Contrary to what you might think, it has not always been pink! It was during a renovation in 1957 that it took on the colour that has since become its signature. The exact reason behind the choice is not clearly documented, but the result is certainly unusual and stands out against the surrounding buildings. We continue to the Jade Emperor Pagoda, a temple with a completely different atmosphere, full of statues, incense and little courtyards. Rain starts to fall, but we stick to our plans and visit Saigon Central Post Office before heading to the Reunification Palace. The palace holds an important place in Vietnam's history, although we find the visit a little less exciting than expected. We mainly see a succession of meeting rooms, formal reception rooms and offices preserved in their period décor. We understand its historical significance, but it is not the visit that leaves the biggest impression on us.
The next day, the heavens really open. We have barely stepped outside when we find ourselves caught in an astonishing downpour and decide to take shelter in a shopping centre. We might as well use the bad weather as an excuse to do some shopping! Luckily, the sky eventually clears and the city looks completely different. We visit the flower market, pleasant to wander around even if it is not particularly spectacular, then pass by the Café Apartment again to see it in a different light. Towards the end of the day, we walk down to the banks of the Saigon River to watch the sunset and take a few photos. And because the weather seems determined to keep surprising us, the rain returns in the evening. This time, though, we almost find it beautiful: neon signs reflect off the wet road, lightning lights up the sky and the streets take on a completely different atmosphere.
In the end, what we remember most fondly from our two visits to Saigon is the nights out. We enjoyed exploring its monuments, markets and neighbourhoods, but it was the bars, music, lights and nighttime energy that really won us over. We also laughed a lot, happily rediscovered delicious Vietnamese food, played pickleball more often than planned and met an adorable little boy on a train. And if we were to come back a third time, we already know we would keep a few evenings free. Because in Saigon, we had the most fun after dark.