The bus driver turns off the engine, turns around and shows us the pontoon where we should stop. How does he know it's the right one? We never told him anything except our names. The journey from Hanoi was booked with a company; the cruise, in another, without ever connecting the two or giving the name of any ship. Perfectly established network or cruise mafia, the mystery will remain unsolved. But another question was weighing on us from the start: places that are too famous often end up disappointing, so was Halong Bay, seen and reviewed a thousand times, really going to be worth the detour?
A small shuttle boat then takes us from the pontoon to the main ship. We push the cabin door, and the doubt begins to melt away. As is often the case, the photos did not do the place justice. A bathtub facing the sea, a balcony just for us, a huge bed, and above all this view: the limestone peaks emerging from the water, right there, in front of us. On the roof, a swimming pool, and as the boat has few suites, the space seems endless. On the bed, a heart was placed for us. A couple of two men, we are received without a frown, without the slightest embarrassment. We travel enough to know that this is not the case everywhere, and this detail weighs more heavily than all the luxury of the room.
It remains to understand the setting. In Vietnamese, Ha Long means “descending dragon”. Legend has it that dragons sent by the gods spat out pearls and jade to set up these thousands of islands as a bulwark against invaders. Nearly one thousand six hundred limestone peaks, classified as UNESCO world heritage sites. Faced with them, we no longer discuss the legend.
Then comes the kayak. Thirty, forty minutes of paddling at water level, before returning to the edge. And it is on the way back that the scene that we will not forget appears: a little lady, alone on her boat, transformed into a floating supermarket. Apples, cigarettes, and even bottles of Moët & Chandon. Quite an improbable display on a boat as big as nothing. The contrast is striking, between the great comfort of the boat and this resourcefulness on the water.
In the evening, karaoke gets involved: the Vietnamese on board sing the country's hits, the atmosphere rises, joyful and noisy. We try our luck at squid fishing, without the slightest success. Then night falls in earnest. We go up to the upper deck, and the noise suddenly disappears. Around us, dozens of illuminated boats float in the dark, as far as the eye can see, like a constellation on the water. With a gin and tonic in hand, all that remains is the bay, immense and silent.
The next morning, we open our eyes to the bay itself, the peaks standing just in front of the balcony. One last activity awaits us: the Dark and Bright Cave, a through cave which owes its name to the contrast between its dark part, buried in the rock, and its sudden outlet onto an interior lagoon bathed in light. We discover it aboard a small traditional bamboo boat, driven by a resident of the bay. Before departure, he hands us the famous nón lá, the traditional conical hats of Vietnam. The boat weaves slowly between the cliffs before entering the cave, then emerges onto this hidden, calm and preserved lagoon. Tourist, yes, but the charm remains intact. It is already time to head back to the port.
So, overrated, Halong Bay? Before coming there, our expectations were a little mixed. The most famous places sometimes end up disappointing, and we wondered if Halong Bay would escape this rule. Finally, we leave conquered. The decor, the comfort, this breathtaking view, the atmosphere on board, these encounters along the water, and above all a welcome that never made us feel too much: every minute will have been worth the detour. Too busy, the bay? Maybe. But one thing is certain: for us, the magic has completely worked, and we now understand why it fascinates so many travelers.